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| Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
| Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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| Carbajal, N; Backhaus, Jo. |
| With the application of a two-dimensional nonlinear hydrodynamical-numerical semi-implicit model, the principal tides M(2), S(2), K(2), N(2), K(1), P(1) and O(1) were studied. Energy budgets of the semi-diurnal M(2) and S(2) were calculated separately. The linear sum of these budgets was compared with the tidal energy budget obtained when these two tidal constituents interact. Since a quadratic form for the bottom friction was used, remarkable differences were found. The results show that in the area of the Colorado River delta, the dissipation of tidal energy is very strong. Intense tidal currents were observed in the same region and over the Salsipuedes Sill. Energy budgets calculated for forcing waves of different periods, but of the same amplitude,... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Modèle numérique; Marée; Courant résiduel; Bilan énergétique; Seiche; Numerical modelling; Tide; Residual flow; Energy budget; Seiche. |
| Ano: 1998 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00325/43666/43204.pdf |
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